When a conversation spans half a century of craftsmanship, ethics, and innovation, it becomes more than an interview, it becomes part of a legacy. In the latest episode of Edelstenen, gemologist Leone Langeslag speaks with Edward Asscher, fifth-generation leader of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company, about the family heritage, the ethics that shape the trade, and the future of the diamond world.
Edward’s career is a story of devotion and vision. From joining the family business in 1970 to guiding it through decades of innovation and global engagement, he has carried forward the values that define Royal Asscher. He recalls moments from the family’s history, such as a post–World War I diamond workshop in Versailles, created by his great-uncles to employ disabled veterans, a chapter that reflects a tradition where craftsmanship and humanity are inseparable.
That same sense of responsibility took Edward beyond the ateliers of Amsterdam to the global stage. In 1999, he became a central figure in the fight against conflict diamonds, helping to establish the Kimberley Process, a United Nations–backed certification system that now ensures over 99% of the world’s rough diamond trade is conflict-free. “What we started in 2003 had a massive positive impact on Africa and on the global diamond trade,” he reflects, while acknowledging the ongoing challenge of expanding the definition to address human rights abuses by governments.
Edward’s vision extends beyond diamonds. He calls for greater transparency in the colored gemstone trade, urging the largest players to lead in setting standards for environmental protection, fair pay, and human rights. He also dispels the myth that lab-grown diamonds are inherently “green,” pointing to their high energy consumption, often coal-based and their minimal resale value.
Today, Royal Asscher is led by Edward’s daughter (Lita Asscher) and youngest son (Mike Asscher), bringing a fresh dimension to the company’s leadership. “About 80–90% of all diamonds are bought by women… When you’re designing jewelry, having that female perspective really matters,” he says, underscoring the role diversity plays as both an ethical commitment and a business advantage.
Perhaps most telling is the personal motto Edward carries from his years as Chairman of the World Diamond Council: “Don’t leave anyone behind" that means: "Don't leave behind a country, or a person, just because they work under primitive conditions… Everyone deserves a fair wage and safe working conditions.” It is a belief that unites artistry with accountability, and a reminder that true brilliance lies not only in the light a diamond reflects, but in the integrity of its journey.
To hear the full conversation, rich with history, insight, and Edward’s vision for a responsible future, listen to the episode here (Dutch): https://open.spotify.com/episode/1rMMK1Ntn5UQBIUegiRKbR?si=ebNYJ351TeGQSAQzVjI_Yw