When shopping for a diamond engagement ring, one of the first choices is selecting the perfect diamond shape. From classic round and elegant oval to unique pear and square cuts, many shapes are easy to recognize. However, the Asscher cut diamond stands apart with its vintage charm, mesmerizing step-cut facets, and unparalleled brilliance, making it a truly distinctive choice.

The Asscher cut diamond isn't just another geometric shape, it carries the legacy of a family deeply rooted in diamond history. If you're searching for Asscher cut diamonds, you may have come across the Royal Asscher Cut diamond, which has likely brought you here. One common question we often hear is: What exactly is a Royal Asscher Cut diamond, and how does it differ from the Asscher Cut diamond? Let’s explore what makes the Royal Asscher Cut a superior and extraordinary choice.

The history of the Asscher Cut diamond by Joseph Asscher 

The story of the Asscher cut diamond begins in 1902, when Joseph Asscher introduced this iconic shape, redefining brilliance and craftsmanship. This groundbreaking design set the Asscher cut on a path of prestige and excellence, making it one of the most sought-after diamond cuts in the world today.

By then, the Asscher family was already celebrated for its unparalleled craftsmanship and artistry in diamond cutting. At the time, most diamond cuts were relatively simple and lacked the brilliance we see today. Joseph Asscher set out to revolutionize diamond cutting, creating a shape with enhanced sparkle by refining the octahedral structure of rough diamonds. His innovation led to the steep, squared-off, step-cut Asscher diamond, a masterpiece of geometric precision and light reflection that remains timeless.

What is a step-cut diamond?

Step-cut diamonds, such as the Asscher cut and emerald cut, feature elongated, rectangular facets arranged in a concentric pattern, creating a mesmerizing hall-of-mirrors effect that enhances brilliance and depth. Unlike brilliant-cut diamonds, which radiate light outward, these step-cut diamonds emphasize clarity and fire, making them a sophisticated choice. Their clipped corners provide both a sleek, modern aesthetic and added durability, preventing chipping and ensuring lasting beauty. Perfect for those who appreciate timeless elegance, Asscher and emerald cut diamonds offer a striking balance of refinement and durability.

The first ever patented diamond cut in the world

Joseph Asscher’s original Asscher cut diamond rose to prominence in the 1920s, perfectly embodying the bold, geometric aesthetics of the Art Deco era. With its clean lines, step-cut facets, and unmatched brilliance, the Asscher cut became an icon of vintage luxury. Notably, it was the first patented diamond cut in the world, ensuring its exclusivity and craftsmanship remained unparalleled. However, the devastation of World War II led to the loss of the patent, allowing others to replicate the design. Despite this, the Asscher family's legacy endured, and today, the Royal Asscher Cut continues to refine and elevate this historic diamond shape.

During the war, the original patent expired and, along with the destruction of the Asscher Diamond Company (as it was then known), was lost to the masses. Today, while the shape often still bears the Asscher family name, what you'll find on the market are simply "square emerald cut" diamonds and they will be listed as such on a Diamond Grading Certificate. These square emerald cut diamonds can be cut by anyone and are not held to any strict standards of brilliance or beauty. 

Knowing this was the case, in 1999, Edward Asscher (the fifth generation of the family business) attended a Gemological Institute of America (GIA) seminar. Bearing a name placard across his chest, he was repeatedly asked if people could buy an Asscher cut diamond from him. It was just the spark he needed to get back into the diamond design business, working with his brother Joop to create an even more beautiful Asscher cut diamond that would carry the family name into the future. 

The Royal Asscher Cut is born

It took two years of intense research and innovation, but in 2001, the Royal Asscher Cut diamond was born. Taking inspiration form the family's historic cutting of the Cullinan diamond in the British Crown Jewels into gems that bear 74 facets (rather than the square emerald standard of 58), the Royal Asscher Cut is inimitable in more ways than one. 

We begin by selecting from only the top 5% of rough diamonds in the world. These perfect octahedral crystals are then sawn above the middle part of the diamond, a crucial action that sacrifices 15% more of the rough diamond to achieve the Royal Asscher Cut's notably higher crown. Master craftpeople then set to work exposing the unique beauty of this collection of diamonds. 

Only 75 people in the world can cut a Royal Asscher Cut to perfection

Such is the level of expertise required that there are fewer than 75 people in the world who can polish to Royal Asscher's exact specifications. It takes even the most experienced diamond polisher a minimum of three months of intense training to learn the skills required of this masterful art. 

The result of this precision is that every Royal Asscher Cut diamond is perfectly symmetrical . Its proportions must fall within strict parameters so that every facet is absolutely accurate. It is this symmetry, the diamond's high crown, and its extra 16 pavilion facets that give the Royal Asscher Cut its unprecedented dispersion of color and light, setting it apart from the square emerald cuts flooding the market. 

The precision of a Royal Asscher Cut

Why is this precision cutting so important? Ultimately, the cut of the diamond is the most important of the 4Cs - cut, color, clarity and carat - determining just how brilliant and beautiful a diamond is to the eye of the beholder. Cut can even make a diamond appear larger, brighter, and more clear. 

Acquire a Royal Asscher Cut diamond

To see the difference for yourself, explore our collection of Royal Asscher Cut Diamond Jewelry, including classic diamond solitaire engagement rings, diamond halo styles, diamond anniversary bands and more. Should you have questions about diamonds, our products, boutiques, or tips on picking the perfect diamond jewelry piece, Our Bespoke Service is here to make your journey in our world as beautiful and flawless as our diamonds are.